It soon felt like I was trespassing onto a secret, mystical land.
“Where are you going on your honeymoon,” I was asked during the nuptial planning.
“Los Roques?” was my half answer.
I was met with eyes either wrinkled in confusion or seeped in nostalgic longing. It was a good sign. Los Roques was either unknown or revered.
The charm of Los Roques lies in its rustic, lethargic beat. Time stands still in the archipelago with its soothing sunsets, calm rippling water and pelicans diving into the bay. Visitors mingle with friendly locals while navigating Gran Roque’s sandy alleys. A laid back vibe that transports visitors to a sanctuary far away from civilization. The area is topographic heaven. It is breezy but due to a natural barrier that protects the islands from storms and waves, the sea is as flat as a swimming pool. A giant aquarium of clean crystal water.
July, August, December and January are the peak months. September, November, February and March are the recommended off-peak months, with enough wind to keep the aggressive mosquitoes at bay. Crustacean fans can go during lobster season which runs from November 1st to April 30th.
The lack of tourists, its rustic charm and pristine beaches makes Los Roques an unforgettable destination once overcoming the major hurdles of getting there and changing money.
Getting There
It is advisable to avoid Caracas as Foreign Policy magazine recently voted it one of the world’s most violent cities. It would be wise to stay put at Caracas airport (Aeropuerto International de Maiquetia Simon Bolivar), a decent sixteen miles away from danger.
To avoid spending the night near the airport allow for a connection time of an hour and a half. The last flight to Los Roques leaves around 5:30pm before it is too dark to see the landing strip.
The long connection process includes immigration, bag collection (keep baggage receipts as they are checked), customs (luggage scanning), taxi transfer to National Airport (five minutes), ticket collection from National Airport and a taxi transfer to Auxiliary Airport (five minutes) where most flights to Los Roques leave from.
It is important to coordinate flights to Caracas and to Los Roques together and choosing airlines will predominantly rest on their schedules. We flew Sundance, operated by a company called Jomilco but our tickets were bought from Aeroejecutivos, located in the National Airport. Aerotuy is the longest-standing operator located in the National Airport and has larger fifty-seater planes. All flights from Caracas to Los Roques seem to be the same price (around $200 return per person). Posadas can also help with any flight bookings.
It is advisable to take a taxi from either the National or the International airports to the Auxiliary airport as it is not safe to walk. The official taxi company at the airport has a designated desk and a minimum fee of 50 Bolivars. A non-official taxi can be obtained at a lower rate but agree beforehand on the Bolivar or dollar price.
That was the easy part.
Exchanging Money
It can be challenging to change money at the black market exchange rate. The alternative is to obtain less than half of your money's worth at the official rate and help Chavez along the way. The black market rate can be checked on the following site: http://lechugaverde.com/
We managed to get a decent rate from the Aeroexejutivos counter. The lady kindly let us pay for our tickets in dollars and changed some extra cash for us. Be wary of suitcase wrappers, taxi drivers and even government officials selling counterfeited money.
Once aboard the 1950's Russian eight-seater plane soaring above the archipelago of Los Roques enshrouded in turquoise bliss, the pain of getting there will dissipate.
Accommodation
Most visitors stay on a sailboat or at a posada, which is Spanish for a small inn or guesthouse. Do not expect anything luxurious. There are no five-star hotels, jacuzzis or spas. Just pure rustic heaven.
Posadas
The airport is located in Gran Roque, one of only two "tourist-inhabited" islands. Rasqui houses one posada, Rasqui island chalet, a magnet for mosquitoes due to the nearby brush. Most posadas quote a price per person for half board (two meals) or full board (three meals) which makes the trip more economical.
Posada Acuarela: The ambience fits with the laid-back style of the islands. Angelo, the owner, and Cosimo, an ex-New York chef, cook up a real storm. The meals are exquisite using fresh local produce with flair. The service is hospitable and impeccable. It would be advisable to book a room in the back of the posada as the front-facing rooms overlook a raucous school.
Posada Malibu: This posada is considered the most beautiful in Gran Roque. Expect spontaneous closures when the co-owners are in marital discord.
Other recommended posadas include Posada Mediterraneo, Posada Macano Lodge, Posada Cigala, Posada Natura Viva, Posada La Terrazza and Posada Gotera where visitors lounge on poufs in the sand overlooking the harbor.
Sailboats
Renting a sailboat allows for greater flexibility and the ability to roam the islands and the more isolated spots at one’s own pace. Before 10:30am and after 5pm, when the boats have left with day visitors, the islands are exclusive to those on roaming sailboats. The waters are calm making it suitable for even those less seafaring. It is a unique experience being surrounded by all the elements; the wind, the nature, the stillness of being out at sea watching the sunset and the moon from the back of the boat.
The following is a list of sailboats available for rental:
Sula Sula http://www.sula-sula.com/home.html
The owner, Fernando, is professional and a good sailor. He keeps this 41-footer in excellent condition.
Pitiguey http://www.losroquesonline.net/main/
This catamaran is highly recommended.
A beautiful 50-foot sailboat.
51-foot sailboat.
Turpial http://www.turpiallosroques.com/
50-foot older sailboat.
This sailboat has a spacious cabin at the front. The owner and captain of the boat is a kitesurfer and knows all the good spots. He can even take you 'moon kiting' which is a fantastic experience, kiting during a full moon. However, he likes to feel he is part of your group so he does not give guests much space. All three meals are shared with him and his girlfriend, the cook, so I would not recommend Thalassa if you are on your honeymoon. The food is mediocre.
El Houat http://www.roqueparaiso.com/
It would be advisable to check the crew’s fluency in English.
Eating
Posada Acuarela and Natura Viva are excellent choices in Gran Roque serving fresh local fare.
Don Lipe is an institution in Los Roques on the island of Crasqui. Lipe, the owner, is a fisherman and chef extraordinaire. He serves fresh fish, perfectly cooked in an ambience of calm and rustic charm.
El Canto de la Ballena is a fish restaurant overlooking the port. It is advised to reserve a spot the night before as food is purchased according to the number of guests.
Acquarena is a fun place to sit by the port in the sand and have a drink. They have great caipirinhas and mojitos. The sushi camiguanas dish (fried anchovy maki) is delicious.
Activities
Every morning, depending on the weather conditions, fishing boats take visitors out to the various islands that make up the resplendent archipelago of Los Roques.
Posadas organize trips out to the islands. Oscar's Shop at the entrance to the village of Gran Roque is also an operator. Boats leave at 9:45am and return around 4:30pm and provide chairs and parasols. There are beautiful spots to snorkel and Oscar also rents out snorkeling equipment.
The must-see islands are Cayo de Agua, Crasqui, Cayo Fabian, Sarqi/Espenqui and Sebastopol. Francisqui has a restaurant for those wanting a sun break and is close to Gran Roque. Cayo de Agua is the most beautiful island and well worth the trip. It is the furthest from Gran Roque (45 minutes to an hour by speedboat) and if the sea is too choppy no boats will venture there. Some boats make detours to turtle island (turtle foundation for preservation) and Espenqui to break up the long journey on the way back.
Diving
The clean pristine waters makes Los Roques an inviting diving location. Boca de Cote is the favorite diving spot among visitors with a maximum depth of 12-15 meters and superb visibility around multicolored coral. The trip, about forty minutes, takes divers through the archipelago's central lagoon, out of bounds for fishermen and sailboats.
Dive centers will only head to Boca de Cote if they have six divers so it would be advisable to indicate your interest by reserving the night before. La Guasa is a giant coral housing many large fish and is only a twenty-minute trip from Gran Roque.
The team at the Aquatics Dive Center in the town square is young, professional and friendly. Just climb into the boat and the team will handle of all the diving equipment.
Kitesurfing
Windy season is November to June. Los Roques is kitesurfing paradise due to the high winds and flat water. Those who enjoy wave riding can venture outside the barrier near Francisqui island. There is a kitesurfing school for beginners but equipment is not available for rental.
The best spot on the island to kitesurf is Cayo Fabian. Kiters can launch from there and skim across the expansive area from Cayo Muerto to Bajo Fabian. Crasqui, Francisqui and Cayo de Agua are also great kitesurf spots. Another option is to launch from Sebastopol and kite in the central lagoon which is too shallow for boats to pass through.
Fishing
Oscar's Shop or your posada can arrange fishing trips. Oyster fishing is a fun experience but the oysters are chalky in texture.
Sightseeing
Put some comfortable trainers on and hike up to the fort on Gran Roque. The easier hike is on the left hand side if you are looking at the fort. This is the highest point from which to see the sun setting on the dazzling archipelago.
